Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Riesling from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany: Markus Molitor Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese 2008


Aromas reminiscent of nectarine, mango, lime-tree blossom, mace, clove and flint stone. Complex mineral structure with a vibrant and tensional acidity, full bodied, juicy and rich.

Food recommendation: Honey Pear with Ginger Ice Cream, Cardamom Granola Nougat Filled Curd Cheese Dumpling with Preserved Spicy Oranges and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Molitor's 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese comes from modest holdings on the edge of the Wehlener Klosterberg rather than in the main portion of today's expanded Wurzgarten, but you will seldom smell a more intense exhibition of what I deem site-typical ripe strawberry than here, even though a veil of yeast and a honeyed halo of botrytis also distinguish the nose here. A creamy texture reinforces the honeyed side to this while marked salinity and crustacean-like minerality offer counterpoint and irresistible savor. What's more, this displays amazing delicacy, in fact near weightlessness, and its sweetness is so well-balanced as to go unnoticed. This exceptional value will be even better as its fermentative legacy recedes, and should be worth following for 20 or more years.

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