Admirably situated on a hill between Pommard and Beaune, with a direct southern exposure, Clos des Mouches is one of the most famous Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune. The name "Clos des Mouches" probably goes back to the beginning of the Middle-Ages (around 1550) because of its slopes facing South/South-East: a very favourable place for keeping bees. The word "Mouches" (Flies) was actually the local name for bees. As bee keepers started to set up their bee-hives, the area became known as "Clos des Mouches" (i.e. the Enclosure of the Honey Bees).
After the destruction of the Burgundy vineyards due to the phylloxera epidemic of 1875-1880, Clos des Mouches was entirely replanted with Pinot Noir. Having fortunately come across some ancient documents which revealed that the vineyard had previously produced an excellent white wine, Maurice Drouhin, in 1921, began replanting with some Chardonnay. The result was of exceptional quality. To-day, there is an almost equal balance between white and red.
Some of the stocks he planted are still alive to-day. They constitute a precious genetic pool, especially when grafted onto superior root-stocks. They are not vigorous and produce tiny berries with a thick skin. The density of plantation is high and the yield is low.
Soil doesn't change much in the Clos. Lighter and stony at the top, coloured with broken stones at the bottom, with a good variety of chalky marls bringing complexity. Once harvested, the white grapes are crushed in a pneumatic press. The juice obtained is then fermented in oak barrels for a year during which the malolactic fermentation will take place.
An outstanding wine. Pale yellow color. Complex floral nose of white lilac and white rose. Once open, fruity aromas come to the fore, evolving towards grilled hazelnut and almond. When the wine is more mature, the nose is surprisingly strong and fifteen minutes of aeration produce wonderful notes of white truffle, citron, honey and nutmeg, elegantly meshed together. Very lively on the palate. Its rich texture is in evidence, but also its structure and minerality. It is round, but never heavy. Harmonious fullness in the aftertaste.
The 2007 Beaune Clos des Mouches is first and foremost an unusually powerful and broad wine for its vintage, as well as not coincidentally the highest in alcohol – at 13.75% – of this year’s Drouhin collection. It also displays musky and carnal elements and a seductively satiny texture in common with a number of its stable mates. Yet there is still a refreshing core of citrus present and a genuine sense of lift to the finish here at the same time that its grapefruit rind, toasted praline, and chalk dust seem to adhere indelibly. This should be fascinating wine to follow for the better part of then next decade, if not beyond.
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